Buyer's Guide

The best advice you'll get on any used car you are considering will come from a trained mechanic. Get an independent inspection from a knowledgeable Audi mechanic if you are serious. The $60 -- $200 you spend will be the best investment you make in the car!

Here is a list of things you can check out on a 20V car. Thanks to Ian Duff for compiling the original version. Don't let it scare you, though. Not all cars have these problems, and some of the problems are easy and cheap to fix. (Don't let the seller know that!)

Things to look for:

• When was the timing belt last changed? This is crucial because if that belt goes, the valves and pistons will become intimate. You'll pay lots of labor to get the belt replaced, but it's peanuts compared to what it costs to fix an engine that has "interfered" with itself. I think the official service interval for the belt is 90K mi., but I'd have it done every 60K to be on the safe side.
• Pentosin leaks in steering gear (rack, pump, hydraulic hoses). Big bucks for new rack, like $1600 list, but remanufactured can be found for around $350. New pump is also big $$$. This problem is common to some Audis of this vintage.
• Bad hydraulic pressure accumulator. $250-ish for a new one, PITA to replace. This problem is common to most Audis of this vintage with hydraulic assist.
• A/C leaks, losing all R12 refrigerant. Could be some of the high $ hoses, but most often the culprit is the condenser, which can be welded for cheap by any radiator repair shop. This problem is common to some Audis of this vintage.
• Clutch master or slave cylinder not cylindering. Symptoms include clutch pedal not returning all the way to rest position, unless encouraged. Each cylinder new is about $60-70, there are rebuild kits available, and sometimes just changing the brake fluid will bring them back to life. Common to some Audis of this vintage.
• Stressed rubber bits (suspension bushings, engine/trans/rear diff/front and rear subframe mounts) deteriorating and not doing their little bit. Just doesn't feel like a new Audi. Car will feel *like new* when you replace them. This problem is common to most Audis of this vintage.
• Dead rubber exhaust donuts cause the exhaust to rest on driver's side rear halfshaft, wearing a hole through exhaust. Exhaust is stainless steel, so you can get it patched, and get 3 new chain reinforced donuts or reinforce existing ones with nylon zip ties. This problem is unique to 20v cars.
• Inoperative radiator fan. The fans will sometimes fail because of stress on the wiring harness, or the motor may just freeze up. Also, it might not work because of a bad temperature sensor. Be sure that the fan comes on when the A/C is engaged, and when the engine is hot with the car both on and off. This problem is common to most Audis of this vintage.
• Rear hatch squeaks. Fix is at best free (adjustment or lube), at worst small $$ for new latch pins. This problem is unique to the Coupes.
• Loose inner tie rod ends. Squirrelly handling and some clunks turning at low speed. Free fix, just a 15mm (I think) wrench. Also could need alignment, check tire wear. This problem is unique to the 20V cars.
• Electrical switch lights burnt out. Switches are typically around $60 each, to fix a $1 bulb available from Radio Shack. This problem is common to most Audis of this vintage.
• Dead wheel bearings. Replacement at dealer runs over $550 ($250 for bearing and $300 for hub). The bearing can be had for $60, and you likely don't need a new hub. This problem is common to some Audis of this vintage.
• Missing headlight washer jets. Audi dealer wants ~$100 for replacement, but you can use the piece from a Passat for ~$30. This problem is unique to the Coupes.
• Noisy or inoperative power windows. Fix is at best free (clean out switch), and at worst about $500 (new regulator assembly). This problem is common to all Audis of this vintage.

There were at least five major upgrades:

1. Airbag, starting with Coupe #1109 (July, 1989 production), according to Bentley Electrical Manual. There is a fairly obvious knee bar under steering wheel on airbag cars, package shelf is there on bomb-less ones.
2. Sway bars changed from just a front, to front and rear, starting with Coupe #3682 (September, 1989 production), according to parts fiche.
3. Tubular stainless steel exhaust headers changed to a cast iron manifold starting with Coupe #13611 (March, 1990 production), according to parts fiche.
4. The ECU was changed beginning with Coupe #15000 (March, 1990 production). This caused no obvious change in performance figures, but other parts were changed at the same time (ISV, throttle switches).
5. The sunroof changed from steel to smoked glass for the 1991 model year (Coupe only?). The control also changed from a typical rocker switch, to a dial that can be used to preselect any position.

90 Quattro 20V Sport:

(Bob D'Amato)
For the 1991 model year, there was a sport model of the 90Q20V offered. It had similar 15" Speedline rims as the CQ (different offset) and a lower, stiffer suspension. The easiest way to tell if a 90Q20V is the sport model is to check the tag in the trunk for option code 1BE.

Price:
Asking prices for these cars can vary widely, from ~$6K for one with high miles and lots of wear, to ~$16K for one whose owner has lost touch with reality. Most are priced high because of the rarity (1730 Coupes imported to U.S.). Check out Kelly Blue Book and Edmund's Price Guides for current book values.

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